Thursday, 11 October 2007

Autumn in Arisaig

Autumn in Arisaig started more of an Indian winter than an Indian summer with some quite chilly days, but recently there have been some great days for getting the sea kayaks out.


This week has seen 2 groups of kayaker/canoeists at Ach na skia Croft. Dougal and friends had 2 good days on the water, hiring 3 of the club Capellas.


Day 1 saw them out to the islands in Arisaig Bay and round the corner to Back of Keppoch then back to Island View to chill out.



Day 2: Out of Loch Ailort and round to the bothy before heading back to the rat race.





The Punters from Banbury are making the most of the weather with their Canadian Canoe, with some ambitious ideas for trips up Loch Nevis to Sourlies Bothy, or to Oban Bothy at the head of Loch Morar.



The highlight for us recently has been a trip to Canna on the last Saturday of September. Seven o'clock in the morning saw us loading the 6 kayaks onto the CalMac ferry at Mallaig. A very tasty full breakfast on the ferry set us up for the morning. Met a few old friends on the boat. John "Bird" Chester from Eigg was heading home after a couple of weeks in the south of France and was looking forward to some proper weather (but not the e-mails!). Eilidh, Canna's teacher, who is taking the school roll as a personal challenge, was on the boat returning from a course, complete with "bump". Morag from Eigg was on her way home from a few days teaching on Rum.
After a quick stop on Rum we arrived at Canna at 10a.m. and were on the water by 10.30a.m. Much discussion about the times and direction of tidal flow had led us to decide to journey in an anti-clockwise direction. Not sure how long it might take, and not wanting to miss the afternoon ferry home, we set off at a good pace, pausing to explore the huge caves on the south of Sanday island. We reached our anticipated lunch stop at Tarbert, where Eilidh said she might meet us, long before lunchtime and decided to crack on and see where we found ourselves. On the next stretch we disturbed a pair of sea eagles that must have been feeding on a carcass at the shore, as they flew up and over us at close quarters. We must have had a bit of tidal flow in our favour as we were soon round to Garrisdale point on the west of the island where we came upon the first of a number of massive Atlantic grey seals. Just as were lining up to go through a narrow gap in the rock on the isside of the skerries one loomed up to the left and slithered down the rock beside us and under the boats. As we approached our new lunch spot at Sgeir nan Sgarbh another was perched on a rock singing a loud and soulful song. On the beach we were watched carefully by a herd of Highland cattle.
The island was much more dramatic than I had imagined it, with towering cliffs and rocky caves being a major feature. The different colours of the layers of rock were fascinating.
The final stretch of the journey was rewarded with further wildlife sightings. Having just passed the Iorcail stac we approached another large rock, An t-Each. Rebecca and Bill went off to explore a cave and I looked up saw a huge shape on top of the rock. As Mike approached I pointed it out to him. Not having his glasses on he thought it was a sheep, but no, it was an extremely large Golden Eagle! While Mike and I sat patiently waiting for it Jill continued on round the rock and was the lucky one, seeing both the one we were watching and its partner fly off.






We got back to the pier by 4p.m. expecting to find Bill and Rebecca already there, but it turned out we'd left them behind in the cave - much ribbing from a foursome of kayakers from Paisley who were already on the pier! After changing clothes and tidying up the gear we had time for a short walk up to the unusual Free Church and along the road. An island that is definitely worth another visit.
The ferry at 6.30p.m. fed us another good meal, gave us a cracking sunset and landed us back in Mallaig at 9p.m. - 6 happy bunnies.
Next we're off for some paddling in the Kornati islands off the Croatian coast. Laura will be looking after things at Ach na skia Croft till we get back.